Frequently Asked Questions

Initial water content of the foam is approximately 4% by volume, too low to affect a buildings structure. The partially open-cell nature of the foam means the insulation dries out quickly (in approximately 2-3 weeks) and once dry, RetroFoam resists re-absorption of water. In most cases the foam dries out before Mold can grow. Additionally, prior to insulation, a technician will assess your home for existing moisture issues that could extend dry time.

No. When RetroFoam is exposed to water it is hydrophobic – meaning it sheds water rather than holds it. Even when immersed in water, RetroFoam absorbs only a small amount of water which quickly evaporates once it is removed from water. As with most insulation materials RetroFoam will become water-logged when exposed to water over a long period of time.

This is partially correct, however the primary purpose of this gap is to keep moisture traveling through the brick, which is porous, from touching the wood and sheathing. If the wood is in contact with brick it will take up moisture which causes the wood to rot. RetroFoam is breathable, but also repels water. The foam fills the whole cavity space providing a suitable thermal barrier, without transferring moisture to the wood.

Installation takes approximately 1-2 days, so there is minimal disruption to your home. We ask that pictures be removed from walls

It’s preferable but not necessary. We do ask that our crew members have access to the home to monitor for problems during the foaming process, as well as to check outlets once the drilling is complete.

No. RetroFoam has a Class I fire rating which means it is non-combustible. Even in intense heat, RetroFoam will not burn or melt, however it will char, lose weight and disintegrate.

No. unlike some plastics, RetroFoam will not react with plastic coated cabling/wiring.

To a small degree (maybe as much as 1-3%), some initial shrinkage is normal, but tests have shown that RetroFoam maintains its physical and insulation properties. Often the void space from shrinkage is less than what can be achieved when installing fiberglass bat insulation.

When first installed, RetroFoam feels similar to a shaving cream. It needs a semi-fluid consistency in order to seal the entire wall cavity and flow evenly around various barriers. It begins drying almost immediately, although it takes between 2-4 weeks to cure. Once dry, it becomes firm, but remains malleable at all times, and can be gently removed and reinstalled.

300 grams per gallon

RetroFoam has a unique classification of 60% closed cell. This allows for quick drying.

No more than .016 ppm, which is well below EPA restrictions. Formaldehyde is also naturally produced in very small amounts in our bodies as a part of our normal, everyday metabolism and causes us no harm. It can also be found in the air that we breathe, the food we eat, and the products we put on our body.

RetroFoam is safe, although we don’t recommend it for consumption.

No. Our goal is to leave the outside of your home exactly as we found it. However, depending on the type of siding there may be noticeable cosmetic changes.

As little as necessary to ensure every cavity is properly filled. Typically 1 to 2 rows per wall

No. It is non-expanding foam, specifically designed for retro-fitting purposes. As long as there are no pre-existing cracks or areas you’re concerned about, we shouldn’t have any issues. We ask that the house be accessible to our crew during the foaming process, to ensure we can monitor the interior of your home in case a problem arises. It’s important for you to identify any areas you’re concerned about so our crew leader can review them before installing the foam.

No. We can apply wood filler to wood/cedar/hardboard/composite siding, but the homeowner is responsible for paint touchups. Siding will reinstall normally.

We do our best. There may be a slight difference due to weathering, but on most homes, once the mortar patch dries the hole locations are difficult to identify. We salvage mortar dust from drilling for reuse and or color match

By drilling 5/8” holes through the T-joint in the mortar. Our trained install technicians are careful not to damage any of the brick/stone veneer. They’ll drill three holes per cavity: low, middle, high. They’ll install RetroFoam from the bottom up. They’ll place a straw in the cavity directly above where they’re foaming. When the straw moves, the cavity has been adequately filled.

That depends on the structure, but typically 6”. Anything larger will need to be inspected by a sales associate.

Depends on the texture and structure, but often yes.

Yes, we have other methods of install. A net applied to studs, or drilling holes thru new drywall before drywall finishing begins.

Yes it can, We’ll fill every cavity we can access. We can drill ¾” holes around window frames. This should be addressed on a case by case basis.